Coming back to life one summer in the mountains
A travel guide to Jemez Springs Village, New Mexico
We planned this summer getaway to celebrate 10 years of marriage. This was the perfect time to go somewhere off the beaten path, and we have been planning and plotting when our return trip will be ever since we left.
Several key landmarks, adventures, and historic sites were a 5-10 minute drive away and within walking distance from where we stayed. If hiking to a remote private hot spring, surrounded by views that can only be described as otherworldly and eating the best elk sausage burrito of your life sound like your thing, and reconnecting to yourself with a loved one and with the world has long been a dream in your mind, then read on…
Here are our top picks for Jemez Springs Village:
Spence Hot Springs
Elk sausage burritos at Jemez Cafe
Jemez historic Site
Mineral bath house in Jemez Springs
Soda damn hot springs
Airbnb recommendation
Airport Info
First things first, I recommend flying into Albuquerque New Mexico, as it is a straight shot and about an hour away from Jemez Springs Village. You will also want to do your grocery shopping, fill up on gas, and any other needs before you head out. Jemez Springs Village is also an hour-ish away from Santa Fe, in the opposite direction, but make sure you have a four-wheel drive, and your driver is not afraid of heights, or steep curves for that journey. Jemez Springs Village offers so much that you’ll most likely not want to leave during your trip!
Where to stay - Mission Street Arts- Artist Residency
The view from our Airbnb was stunning and we were within walking distance of several places to eat, including a cafe literally a stone’s throw away that served breakfast, lunch, coffee, snacks, etc. as well as the Mineral Bathhouse. The hot springs and historic ruins were less than a 20-minute drive away. The owner Billy lives on-site in the main house next door, and while close we still felt we had plenty of privacy in the guest house. The owner even offered to buy us a beer at a local dining spot down the road, where he worked a shift!
Mineral Bathhouse in Jemez Springs-
I have never been to a day spa, had a massage, or done anything luxurious before. But being in a private room, in a hot mineral bath, with natural light and the breeze blowing through at the top of the room, in a dreamy mountain town in June comes pretty damn close. It is a private space, you can wear a swimsuit or not, whatever your comfort level is and rooms are available with 1-2 tubs depending on if you are going alone or with a partner, spouse, or friend. You do have to schedule in advance, though we only called a day before. You can have the option to adjust the water temperature yourself, to make it hot, cold, lukewarm, etc.
I came out very relaxed, tired, and sleepy, so this is definitely an activity you want to do after hiking, shopping, eating, and not before. We only paid about $30 for a 50-minute soak each, so less than $100 for two, and it was plenty of time. They also made a list that was reviewed in the New York Times, Summer 2008 Travel Section of the “31 Best Places to Go.”
The Mineral Bathhouse also functions as a nonprofit, owned and operated by the Village of Jemez Springs, where our proceeds go back into the Village. I’m not often one to label something a “spiritual experience” so don’t let that deter you, but this is truly an experience everyone should have at least once in their lifetime.
Jemez Historic Site/ruins -
Located just a short drive from Albuquerque, nestled in the Village of Jemez Springs, lies the breathtaking Jemez Historic Site. Renowned as one of the Southwest's most stunning locations, it boasts the stone remnants of a village dating back 700 years, along with the historic San José de los Jemez church, erected in 1621. The village of Gisewa, constructed in the picturesque San Diego Canyon by the ancestors of the modern-day Jemez Pueblo (Walatowa) residents, derives its name from the natural springs abundant in the vicinity. During the 17th century, Spanish settlers established a Catholic mission within the village, albeit for a brief period. Over time, the inhabitants vacated the site, relocating to the present-day Jemez Pueblo. They are open Wednesday-Sunday 10 am - 4 pm and there is a $7 admission fee, children under 16 are free.
Spence Hot Springs -
Spence Hot Springs is located on State Highway a mere 4 minutes away from Jemez Springs Village and there is a short hike from the parking area. I will note that we took this trip during the week (Wednesday-Sunday) and visited this spring during a weekday, so the small parking lot had plenty of room, and the hot springs leaned more towards the lukewarm side, but again the views and experience were so worth it. We managed to have it all to ourselves on a weekday for about 1-2 hours, but it tends to be more busy and overcrowded on the weekends and holidays. There was no parking fee or admission fee. The hike at a slow/steady pace, took us less than an hour.
Elk sausage burritos at Jemez Cafe/ Highway 4 Bakery and Cafe-
If the words ‘breakfast’ or ‘burrito’ make you feel excited, definitely don’t skip out on the elk sausage breakfast burrito at Highway 4 Bakery and Cafe! These burritos came with elk sausage, bacon, smoked carne adovada, eggs, and potatoes. Mostly meat! The spice level and flavor of the carne adovada mixed with red and green chilis is worth the drive to Jemez Springs. Since this is a small locally owned cafe, I don’t recommend if you are in a big hurry to get your food and leave. Good things take time, and I cannot stress how worth the wait this breakfast burrito was.
Soda Damn Hot Springs
Soda Damn is another quick stop off Hwy 4, right along the route once you leave the Jemez Historic Ruins. There is no fee (and no restrooms) but it is a very unique rock formation with a waterfall (Jemez River). There is a small parking area, and below the waterfall, there is a pond that feeds into the area. Some sections are slippery if you plan on visiting with kids. However, it is a great stop to get out, walk, and look around for as little or as long as you’d like.
So, who should go to Jemez Springs Village, New Mexico? Anyone looking for a little wonder, beauty, awe, and adventure in their life! Anyone needing a break from well anything. While we made this a couple's trip, we are hoping to come back with our kids someday. This location provides the ultimate relax and reset type of getaway.
Till next time,
Hannah
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